What are your Holiday sewing plans? Or have you already finished? I made someone a cute little tote bag for trick-or-treating out of this fun glow in the dark fabric (get it at Quilter’s Emporium or your local quilt shop!) I also used glow in the dark thread for the monogram.
No, I don’t have a photo of the finished bag – I’m notorious for not photographing the gifts I make. But I did still have the sample monogram, which was done with puffy foam so it really stands out. I got both the thread and foam from Uncommon Thread, who carry quite a number of Sulky products.
After this, I have two Christmas gifts to finish, and then my sewing plans are about done for the year! I tend to wind down my personal sewing so I can really enjoy the Holidays. What’s on your sewing queue for the rest of the year?
I attended a few sewing seminars at local stores; saw lots of holiday sewing inspiration; got to see – and play with! – some of the new machines, as well as other new products; and got a fun new upgrade for my new Solaris machine, which includes embroidery couching!
But mostly with this post I want to thank my local sewing stores, who put on these wonderful seminars and classes for their customers – for free! I don’t get anything from these stores, except excellent customer service and wonderful support.
Support your local sewing shops, not just buy purchasing but attending classes and seminars.
And next month is Quilt Show in Houston – don’t forget to stop by your local shop’s booth while you’re there. Not a quilter you say? It’s not just for quilters! If you have a passion for any of the fiber arts, there’s something there for you too! Garment fabrics, machines, accessories, hand embroidery, hand-dyed fabrics, yarns, laces ribbons – just go down and be inspired!
How’s your summer going? Are you keeping cool? We finally have some slightly less hot – slightly – weather in the Houston area coming this weekend.
A sewing friend asked me recently how I keep all my different projects organized; between garment, home décor, quilting, Sashiko and embroidery sewing, I usually have at least three or four (and sometimes many more!) projects going at once. She picked up a few new ideas from me, and maybe you will too after reading my tips below.
Collect Everything You Need
I gather all the supplies I have for a project: fabrics, interfacings/ underlinings, buttons, zippers hardware, threads, decorations (rhinestones, decorative threads, embroidery pattern etc.) and of course the pattern! I make a list of everything, check off what I need, and add what I don’t have to my shopping list.
Make A List or Two
Then I make list of things I need to do: an FBA, lengthen a sleeve; pre-quilt the fabric and batting, cut bias binding; mark out the quilting lines, print embroidery templates, fuse interfacing – whatever preliminaries need to be done before I can start assembly. This list stays with the project, along with a list of my progress so I can drop a project and pick it up again, no matter how much time has passed. For example, I’ll write that everything for a shirt has been pre-cut, but I next need to fuse on the collar and cuff interfacings. Maybe I did the FBA already, but still need to lengthen the sleeves – keeping a running list of your progress lets you put down a project and pick it back up without missing a step.
Keep it Together
I keep my individual projects in zipper bags; these can be ones you purchase or you can collect any that come with your fabric orders. For clothing, I keep the pattern and the adjusted muslin in a clear string folder; all the notions and little items go into yet a smaller bag, and all of that goes into a larger plastic bag with the lists to keep it collected and clean.
A Dedicated Storage Space
For my current and “on-hold” projects, I have a set of drawers in my sewing room. For items I want to complete eventually but don’t have space to keep in my drawers, I have a shelf in a closet where I keep a couple of very long-term projects.
Or how to delay mowing the lawn, even on a nice day.
I used to have respect for fashion designers, especially of handbags and luggage, but I’ve lost some of that respect recently.
I finally bought a really nice bag, not the biggest designer, but one I had been looking at for several years. It’s a lovely, faux alligator in a deep brown, just the right size for weekend trips or as a carry-on bag for the plane or train. It’s really lovely – except it’s poorly designed. Apparently they don’t bother to actually use the products they design – or they have underlings struggling to carry their bags for them.
You see the pad for the shoulder strap is made from the same, shiny, hard, slick leather as the rest of the bag – which means it slides right off your shoulder. Ironically, the bag is lined with exactly the material that would have kept the bag on my shoulder had anyone bothered to sew it on – a flocked, velvety material.
What to do? Well my first thought was pull out a leather needle and sew on a patch of faux suede that I have. I tried to take the pad off the shoulder strap, but apparently it’s not made to come off – another point of poor design. So then I thought I just could sew along the edge, working around the strap.
But then I thought again: wouldn’t it be easier to sew a wrap to put on there? Handle wraps for luggage have become very popular, more so as identification than as a comfort measure. I had two choices readily available in my stash: a nice fabric with a bit of no-slip sewn on, or a piece of faux suede. While the faux suede would have been OK on its own, in the end I decided to use both.
I cut the suede to the length of the existing strap pad, then cut it wide enough to wrap around comfortably. Then I cut strips of the no slip, and of Velcro to close the wrap. I sewed the no-slip in place, sec –
Wait a minute, shouldn’t we be embroidering this? Of course we should – is that even a question? I searched on my machine for a fun little design, duplicated it three times, then added my initials to the bottom of the wrap. Don’t forget to use a topper with suede, so the stitched stand out better. I used a wash away topper as faux suede is washable, but if you use real suede or leather use a heat away topper instead.
OK, back to the story… I sewed the no-slip in place, secured at the ends with a bit of double-sided adhesive stay tape so it wouldn’t move. Then I flipped it over and sewed the Velcro on opposite sides of the wrap (you can use the double-sided stay tape here as well if you’re having trouble holding it in place.) You’ll notice in the photo I had to add a piece of stitch-n-ditch (or you could use a spare piece of pattern paper) on top of the no-slip because, well, it stuck to the machine like it’s supposed to, didn’t it? You could sew on the Velcro first, or not use the no-slip – either way. In any case, you will want to use a walking or roller foot with the Velcro to help it feed through your machine.
Seventy-five minutes later, I have a fun, pretty, personalized solution to a dumb-as-mud designer handbag problem. (And yes, the lawn got mowed after that.) What kind of fixes have you made on the fly?
When I first started sewing, I didn’t really see the need for a serger – many sewers don’t. I constructed knits just fine on my sewing machine with its variety of “lightning” and triple-stretch stitches. I was finally sold on sergers though when I went to a demo and saw what they could really do – decorate! And they certainly do it well.
You know all those fancy threads that would never fit into a needle for sewing with? Yup, your serger can use them just fine. Because sergers have loopers they can use much larger diameter threads than a traditional sewing machine. Your coverstitch can use these threads too, as it has a lower looper. I happen to have a combo machine, which converts from serger to coverstitch.
I think the most fun part of a new decorative serger project is auditioning all my decorative threads – I have dozens and dozens! And not just dozens of colors, but dozens of types; silk ribbon, pearl crown, décor 6, 12wt cotton, 30wt in cotton and rayon, candlelight, Cotona, decora 8 and 12, serger ribbon, variegated, glamour… not to mention crochet yarn, embroidery floss, hemp and linen cord, and basically anything you can get through your looper.
A while back I wanted to do something fancy for my bedroom, and got some nice silk dupioni to make boudoir pillows. (I’m not sure why I call them that, I just always have for as long as I can remember; maybe because they’re usually frilly and satiny.) Vogue Fabrics Store has silk dupioni that’s great for garments and home décor; it washes well and irons just fine.
The fun part starts with choosing colors – I just lay out the fabric and start piling on the threads.
Here I’ve cut a strip so I can sample my threads: what type, which color, which stitch do I want to use? I started with a three-thread wide, but something is up…
Aha, I left the differential feed on from the last project! Let’s fix that and we get – still something funky.
Ok, let’s try again with different settings and – still not great. What do we need? Interfacing! Or underlining as some may think of it. In this case I reach for my tried and true home décor interfacing, fusible tricot. Our wonderful local fabric lady Roz carries it in white and black, and at $6 a yard for 60” wide, there’s no reason not to have this in your sewing room at all times. This interfacing gives just enough weight and body to a variety of fabrics: dupioni, linen, light canvas, quilting cotton, and many other fabrics you might consider for your home décor. Unlike most stabilizers, interfacing stays with your project, providing support for your stitches after you’ve finished it.
So much better!
You will want to sample different interfacings and maybe even stabilizers or underlining; you never know what’s going to give you the look you’re going for. Always try out exactly the combination of fabric, interfacing/ stabilizer/ lining/ underlining, threads and stitching that you want for your project.
I re-threaded and ran several rows of test stitches, and in the end I chose a narrow hem (as opposed to a rolled hem) with a silver white décor 6 in the upper looper, and a dark grey 12 wt cotton for the lower looper (it wasn’t going to show, so it didn’t really matter much.) I also decided on a 60° diamond pattern, in which I did not use the knife; this allows the thread to bunch up a bit at the intersections and gives this nifty scaled look.
I also used a flatlock stitch on the back side of the pillow, and wove those fun threads in and out like ribbon insertion.
I did not come up with these ideas on my own; I got them from several Craftsy classes I watched on sergers. (Craftsy is now bluprint but I understand these classes are still available on subscription.)
Here are a couple of tips for using decorative threads in your serger:
You may need a thread cradle – a loop of serger thread that you pull through first, then put the end of the thicker thread into so you can pull it through the looper.
Also, your decorative threads may need different support from regular serger threads, like spool caps and holders
Do all your machines play nicely together? I heard this phrase from Evy Hawkins of Bit of Stitch. I was watching her in a Sashiko machine video on Sew at Home Classes, and she described her use of multiple machines in a project as her “machines playing nicely together.” I thought that was a fun way to remember that we often have more than one machine in our sewing room, and we don’t have to limit ourselves to one machine or technique for each project.
I’m lucky enough to have a Sashiko machine; it only does one stitch but it’s a fun stitch you can use in a variety of ways. You can use it for quilting of course, but also for applying binding and other decorative tasks.
I found this fun citrus print from a favorite shop when I visit back home, Sew This! in Abita Springs. As soon as I saw it I knew it’d make great place mats and napkins.
I quilted the place mats with the Sashiko, and then used it to apply the binding. How fun is that tiny pick stitch? The body of the mat is done with a stitch length of 2mm and a space of 5mm, and the binding is done with a stitch of 5mm and a space of 2mm.
I also have a very nice serger, and it makes quick work of napkins with a variety of decorative stitches. In this project I used a three-thread wide stitch with 12-wt thread in the upper and lower loopers.
How did I come up with the shape for my place mats? I got the idea from Sew 4 Home.com, a website that has lots of great home décor projects and ideas. The original project is here, but something wasn’t quite to my taste with the trapezoids.
Then I thought I’d like it a lot better with rounded corners, so out came the trusty lid from my faux malachite box.
And I rounded the corners of the napkins too.
I cut my bias binding a bit too small, and probably should have trimmed down the seam allowance, but I did a pretty good job and it turned out OK. In one small area I didn’t catch the under-lap, but a few fell stitches with a needle fixed it fine.
A little while later – and lots of fun stitching! – and I had a lovely new set of place mats and napkins.
I think all sewing machines should come with instructions for making a cover; it would give new owners a quick project that allows them to get to know their machine, and the satisfaction of a completed project!
My machines did not come with instructions for covers, but I found these from Just Sew Patterns, who have an Etsy shop. I made one each for Sunny and Gargantua. Yes, I could have made my own patterns, but I also know myself; if I waited around for me to make the patterns, the covers would never get made.
The covers fit fairly well, though Gargantua’s needed some adjustments as he lives in a serger table. I just left the sides open as flaps – it fits well enough I think.
I chose an embroidery design set from Urban Threads, the Mendhika Pack. I think I used every design too, embroidering the front, back and sides of each cover.
To embroider on the quilted fabric, I used a clear wash away topper and a mesh cut away for the back.
It was easiest to embroider each piece before assembly; sometimes I hooped the fabric with the stabilizer, sometimes I floated it on top. To affix the topper I used the basting stitch that comes with many embroidery machines.
Quick tip; the basting stitch comes out easiest when you clip the bobbin thread from the back first, then pull the excess topper away from the front side.
Just a few hours later and I have some lovely new covers to reduce my dusting time in the sewing room!
When I buy bed linens, they often come in a nifty little drawstring pouch. Depending on the size you buy, they might be large enough to make a shoe bag, or just a nice size bag to organize small things in your dresser or suitcase.
(And you don’t have to wait until you buy linens; as you can see, these are constructed very simply on a serger. Or, use the overcast stitch or French seams on your sewing machine.)
Here’s how to turn those freebies into quick monogrammed bags:
Choose your embroidery thread,
Load some sticky wash way stabilizer in your hoop (or use a light cutaway and basting spray)
Lay the bag inside out on the hoop if you have a single needle combo machine
Or hoop the fabric right side out if you have a free arm machine
Press start on your machine and – two minutes later, a personalized bag!
My sister-in-law dropped by for a nice visit last week; we were happy to spend time with her. She was kind enough to bring us a photo she found while cleaning out – it’s of my husband’s parents from oh-so-long ago. There’s no date on the photo, but my husband figures he was five years or younger.
Anyway, he wanted to frame it, so I started looking at 11 x 14 frames. After a bit of searching and not finding anything appealing, I got smart (maybe too smart) and thought, hey, I can make one with fabric… and after two hours this morning I have a framed photo.
I started by measuring the photo, then deciding how much overlap I wanted for the frame, then how wide I wanted the frame to be. It’s really more of a matting technique at this point, so you could use this as a mat inside of a regular picture frame too, just leave off the final backing.
Next I cut down a piece of Peltex® to the dimensions I settled on; after that I fused the fabric I was using to the Peltex frame and trimmed it to fit. I did leave a ½ inch allowance so I could wrap it around the frame; ½ inch was a bit small to work with, you may want to consider leaving a bit more of an edge. I used my clapper to help set the fabric around the backside.
Since the fabric I chose was a silk dupioni, I knew it was going to shed and I didn’t want to spend time cleaning up threads that might stick out later on, so I used a basting spray, stuck down a piece of muslin, then stitched around the inner and outer edges.
I used a decorative stitch on the inside, and simply top-stitched the outside edge. Once it was all stitched in place, I clipped away the excess (your appliqué scissors will work better here.)
Now to center the photo in the frame – and discover the small but repairable mistake I made. When I initially cut down the frame, I forgot to cut the width to size – and didn’t either check my final measurements before proceeding to the next step. So instead of a lovely one-inch overlap, I got free-hang edges of photo! Ah well, it just fits inside the frame and with archival tape I was able to affix it into place.
To enclose the whole thing, I used plain muslin again, backed with DécorBond® for a bit of stability. I decided to just sew around the whole edge, but if you think you’d like to reuse your frame, only sew down the sides and bottom, leaving the top edge open – you’ll probably want to fold it over and finish it with a straight stitch to make it nice.
I then topstitched around the whole frame again, and trimmed down the excess fabric. I also sewed in a strip of fabric for hanging, you can do that too or add one by hand later, how ever you prefer. Just to make sure the photo didn’t move in the frame, I edge-stitched right along the two sides, can’t even tell it’s there.
And now, here are my in-laws – don’t they look better?
While I’m one for changing needles with each project, maybe you only sewed a couple of quick seams or replaced a button on a shirt – we all need a place to keep our needles that aren’t quite used up. I was keeping them, machine and hand needles, on a magnetic pin cushion. Well, that got to be a mess. Not all machine needles have a nifty color code system for size and type; hand needles don’t have any system – and I’ll be darned if I can tell the difference between a size 8 appliqué and a size 9 sharp.
At our last Fashionista meeting, our member Nateida showed us her latest notion: a needle pad. So much tidier than my old system! But nice as a pre-made one is, it didn’t quite fit my needs. I have three machine stations where I use multiple needles, but I don’t necessarily need all those types at each station. And I wanted one for hand needles as well so I made my own! I made of list of which type and size of each needle I wanted at each station; I then used my embroidery software to create the lettering for each pad, and then embroidered them on my new machine, Sunny.
For the main fabric I used a white sateen that was laying around, and I stabilized it with Décor Bond. I then floated each onto cut away mesh stabilizer in my hoop. Next I cut it down to size, and backed it with a foam product (I don’t know the name or where I got it from, but it’s very similar to ByAnnie’s Soft’n’Stable) followed by another layer of the sateen.
On my first attempt I tried to sew the layers together, turn it out and topstitch it – that did not work well, the foam was too thick.
So I rearranged the layers and bound it with a very pretty batik I had just gotten – much better! All of them are the same, except the serger needle pad; I placed a large washer in the back so it would stick to the magnetic spot in my serger table. And there we are, custom needle pads!